Every Greek city I’ve been to so far usually has their own little spot that’s filled with tavernas. Sometimes you can’t tell where one ends and another begins! This is because they are essentially outside restaurants. They arrange tables and chairs together in one spot for the guests to sit. There is always live music, our favorite taverna here in Thessaloniki has one guy singing with a guitar, and another guy playing the mandolin. Occasionally, guests can go up and sing for the taverna as well because they always play traditional Greek songs that most of the Greeks know. It’s as if an American went to a restaurant and we could sing some traditional American tunes that we all somehow know. There is usually a little gypsy boy that comes in and sings and plays the drum for the establishment and then asks for money afterwards. (I think he’s pretty good at the drums but his little kid singing voice always annoys me.) The people at the taverna always let him play. People also come in from the streets and try to sell things to customers as well. People selling roses and flowers to couples are rather frequent.
When you go to the taverna, you must go at night and stay for at least a few hours. This is not a rushed affair- you always need to take your time with your wine, and enjoy good conversation with friends. I feel that this is also very Greek. They really like to take their time with things, and eating is definitely one of those. For example, last night we went and tried to ask for the bill before midnight-and they just sent us more wine. That’s pretty typical. They will also NEVER kick you out or rush you (also very Greek). One of the first nights we went to the taverna, we stayed until 2 a.m. and they were cleaning up around us but not once did they ever ask us to leave, bring us our bill, or take food off of our table. You will always be left to finish at your own pace. You will never be brought your bill until you ask for it. Even then, it usually takes a while to get it.
The food you get at a taverna is probably comparable to bar food in the US, but it’s Greek so it’s always delicious. Often, you go with a large group and order a few appetizers and some meats and everybody shares off the plates. My favorites include fried zucchini, tzatziki (cucumber yogurt dipping sauce, I usually compare it to ranch dressing back home, not in taste but how it’s used), grilled feta, cheese stuffed beef, chicken breast, stuffed eggplant, and more that I can’t even think of right now. There is always fish and meat, plenty of feta, and salads.
And then there’s the wine. Our favorite place always serves free wine all night. It’s not the best wine in the world, it’s just the table or house wine of the place. Greek wine is a little different. Their best at the sweet red wines. I love it! Regular wine drinkers tend not to like the sweet wines, so I don’t recommend it for big red wine drinkers. You can get dry reds and whites which are just as good. They serve it to you in a little bronze liter pitcher that they make sure to refill immediately if it ever goes empty! Wine is a big part of Greek culture but getting drunk is NOT. To be drunk is to look like a fool, so that is one reason they take their time drinking.
People will sometimes dance at the taverna if they’re in the mood. I’ve seen lots of women get up and dance on the tables, or just dancing near the music is acceptable too. People like to clap and sing along and just all around have fun! I danced last night because there was this woman dancing near our table who kept trying to get us up to dance! It was fun.
So to those of you who will one day visit Greece (and I definitely recommend it, Greek people are the most wonderful people I’ve ever met and it’s just generally a beautiful country!) you must remember to go to a taverna. It won’t be hard to forget because if you’re out at night between 8 p.m. and 2 a.m. you will see and hear the tavernas nearby!
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